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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.